LISBON
Fri 6 Nov 2026
Olá! Pack your walking shoes, we’re off to Lisbon.
On Tuesday we were in Buenos Aires for steak and tango. This week we’re exploring Lisbon with its miradouros, tiled streets and cinnamon bakeries!
48 HOURS IN LISBON
Pastéis, viewpoints and the Tagus
Day one: Alfama and Baixa
Morning. Start up at Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, a hillside viewpoint in Graça. You’ll see the beautiful castle, river and bridge in one go; it’s the view I’d go back for. Then wander downhill through Alfama’s laundry-lined lanes to the Sé, Lisbon’s cathedral, while the streets are still quiet.
Afternoon. Drop into Baixa and out onto Praça do Comércio, the big riverside square rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. For lunch, Time Out Market at Mercado da Ribeira opens daily from 10am: pick a stall, grab a shared table and eat before the afternoon rush.
Evening. Book a casa de fado, a small fado house, back in Alfama. Fado is Lisbon’s mournful guitar-and-voice music, usually sung between dinner courses. At Clube de Fado the kitchen opens at 7:30pm and the first set starts around 8:30pm.
Day two: Belém and Chiado
Morning. Skip the packed Tram 15 and take the suburban train from Cais do Sodré to Belém, the riverside district of monasteries and monuments west of the centre. It takes about seven minutes. Aim for the famous Pastéis de Belém at 8am, when the doors open; from October to June it stays open until 9pm. The famous custard tarts were first baked here.
Afternoon. Walk from the bakery to Jerónimos, Lisbon’s most famous monastery, built to thank the Age of Discoveries. Cloister tickets are €18, the church itself is free. If you have the legs, Belém Tower is a short riverside stroll.
Evening. Catch sunset at Miradouro de Santa Catarina, another wonderful viewpoint looking over the Tagus and the bridge. Then walk into Bairro Alto for petiscos, the local small plates, and a glass of wine on a noisy street before you call it a night.
Local tip: Wear proper shoes: Lisbon’s hills and polished cobbles punish sandals, and pickpockets work the crush on busy trams, especially the 28, so keep your bag zipped. Blisters and a missing phone will ruin Alfama faster than any missed tram.
TODAY’S HACK
Darken the room with hanger clips
Hotel curtains often leave a gap that lets light in at dawn, which can be so annoying. Use the clips on the hangers in your wardrobe to hold that gap shut.
How to do it
Grab two or three hangers that have clips on them (the ones for skirts or trousers).
Clip the curtains together where they meet in the middle. Add another clip if light still leaks down the side.
Leave them on overnight. Works on blackout linings that will not stay closed too.
LOST IN TRANSLATION
“Está bom?”
esh-TAH bom
WHAT YOU MEANT
“Is the food good?”
WHAT YOU GOT
“Are you finished?”
In Lisbon restaurants, waiters often say “Está bom?” when they come to clear your plate. They are checking you are done, not asking for a review. If the food was great and you are still eating, a smile and “ainda não” (not yet) keeps the plate. When you are finished, “pode levar” (you can take it) or a simple nod works. And “obrigado” / “obrigada” still earns a smile.
Tuesday’s photo: It was Petra, in Jordan: Al-Khazneh, the Treasury. Well done if you got it!
GUESS WHERE?
Where in the world is this?
Reply with your guess and we’ll reveal the answer on Tuesday. Photo: Lynx1211, CC BY-SA 4.0
That’s everything from me this week. I’m finishing a bica, still thinking about that first view from Senhora do Monte, and already curious where you’re off to next. Hit reply and tell me. See you Tuesday!